Waveanomics – Mechanics of Surfable Wave

The magnificence of a wave. It is breathtaking and awe-inspiring part of nature which always gets people hooked. Surfing them makes you feel like you are part of nature. Before you go setting off for the waves and start trying to surf another important aspect is understanding the mechanics involved in the waves you surf and then how you are suppose to catch them. A surfer who you train with might give you basic surfing tips on what waves to spot but it better to get yourselves more acquainted with the waves before setting off.

Whitewash – where you start as a Beginner Surfer

On most days this is the strongest force in the wave itself and basically where you will be starting from. Whitewash (or what the Chinese call it Wave Flower) is basically after the waves that come crashing down and the white foamy part that drags through to the beach. This is also the best place to learn balance while you are surfing and where it will be easy to catch waves. They are normally found close to the shoreline and even surfing the whitewash can be fun during bigger waves. Also worth noting is during your paddling towards the wave you would not want to be caught within the whitewash as it would make it much harder to get to the take-off area and you exhaust a lot of energy even before you get there.

Basic Physiology of a Wave

This is how most surfable waves looks – please refer to the picture.

•  Whitewash – mentioned above, great for surfing dummies or seaside kooks. A beginner could even get a mini-wipeout which is also fun and a good experience to get a feel of the waves. Surfing the whitewash might be Accomplishment No. 1 in your road to be a surfer.
• The peak or wave crest  – it is the highest point on a wave if you have a large wave it is also the tipping where the waves start to crash. It is also the are where your getting to the drop zone where you want to start the take-off position. If the tip of your surfboard has already passed the peak. It is too late to catch the wave.
• The wave curl (or beach waves curls) that is the collapsing point of a wave and the area where shortboard surfers take-off and the best angle is 45~60°, this usually require quick movements and concentration. The most surfable waves would be waves that curl in a folding motion (something you see would like a Mexican Wave during a football match) instead of collapsing like a cliff.
• The wave shoulder  or wave swell – that is where the wave begins to swell and the wave start to form this is usually where the longboarder takes off and enjoys the ride of nature with the best angle of take-off 30~45° You would also inevitably want a wave that collapses as some swells just carry on without collapsing and would need more paddling to even catch it.
• The ripcurrent – will be mentioned a little more later and briefly in this article is the circular force that pushes force of the waves, this is usually not visible but felt. Some proper knowledge is required if you are surfing further from land. I will discuss this in detail on another article.
• The Glide Zone – it is not I term I readily but it makes sense and as a surfer you can actually this. This is when you feel the surfboard get angled downwards by Gravity and the waves start pulling you back. This is the spot you paddle a little harder and you surf along the fastest and smoothest pat of the wave. The feeling is incredible! You feel complete.

This is general make-up of a wave and what you would expect but as become a more seasoned surfer and start taking it seriously there are other factors and terms to the mechanics of a surfable wave that you should know such as (read this if you really want to dig deeper):

• The wave period – this is the interval between waves (this is gonna get sciency) it is measured by buoys deep along the shorelines, long time ago nobody really cared, but eventually the found out that it is just as important as the size of the wave you are surfing. A longer wave period actually means a longer ride and also stronger waves which means a bigger push. Personally, I look for waves that are higher than 5s per wave in a forecast.
• Offshore/ onshore winds – preferably an ideal wave would have offshore winds perpendicular to the wave itself. These kinds of winds actually carve the wave to the ideal shape for surfing (remember you want to surf of the fastest smoothest line of the wave wall). If there are other winds or even onshore winds, waves become choppy and you would look for a coastline that is not affected by the wind to surf.
• High-tide/ low-tide – this is actually affected by the location of the beach itself and no beach is similar when affected by the tides. Generally speaking from low-tide to high-tide gives strength to the waves, and if you are looking hard to see reefs cliffs, low-tide would be the best time to observe the waves.

The Perfect Wave Described

A perfect wave really does differ from person to person as you get more experienced you want to try bigger waves. Though a perfect wave for surfing would be something not higher than your experience, good period in-between waves, off-shore winds, with a glassy wall and right tipping angle. The main picture would be a good example just maybe the height is not for everybody.

There you have it – Indepth knowledge of how a Wave Works

So here is some knowledge you can be prepared with so when the surf instructor speaks it does not sound like gobbledygook. This also gives you a good idea on what you are going to be surfing not just blindly go into the wave like most kooks do. Most importantly is each time you surf a wave you get a little more understanding on what waves you are looking and what homework you are suppose to do before heading out. Drop me a comment if you feel that I missed out on something or my definitions need a little tweaking.

And remember: the best surfer is the one having the most fun!