Noosa Declared a World Surfing Reserve

It’s great to see that the surf breaks on Noosa have been declared the 10th World Surfing Reserve by the non-profit organization Save the Waves Foundation. This recognizes the cultural and ecological importance of this surfing site, that it should be presevered and protected as a World Surf Reserve. Why do surfers around the world neeed to recognize the surfing region of Noosa and what is importance of being World Surfing Reserve. Please read on to find out.

More About Noosa

Noosa (or Shire of Noosa), a local city area in South East Queensland Australia has long been revered as surf city that attracts tourists local and international alike to it’s 4km long beautiful beaches and surfable waves. It has diverse ecosystem which boasts a plethora or various wildlife and ocean life around these areas. It also boasts a rich cultural heritage with few Aboriginal tribes living there long before the first settlers in 1700’s. There also a rich history of surfing in the community with dates to 1930’s. Most notable attractions are the Noosa Heads, Australia Zoo (where Steve Irwin worked), Noosa National Park, Sea Life Aquarium and not to forget its great waves which borders on Sunshine Coast. Noosa also has a few notable festivals such as The Noosa Film Festival, Noosa Triathlon and Noosa Festival of Surf. With an average of 2.1 million tourists per year it is important that the regions environment and beaches must be well-managed in order to uphold conservation efforts and ecological value.

World Surfing Reserve

World Surfing Reserve is a program established in 2009 by the Save The Wave Coalition together with its key partners NSR (National Surfing Reserves) Australia and ISA (International Surfing Association). By inaugarating an area a World Surfing Reserve, their aim is to preserve natural wave breaks of the area. They do this through recognizing the key cultural, economical, ecological and community aspects of the surfing area, thereby raising awareness and providing concerted effort in order to preserve them.  Some of their campaigns are CleanCowell, LobosPorSiempre (Protect Punta De Lobos), and NatureTrumpsWalls. In order for the surfing area to be part of the WSR there must be applications filed and certain criterias met. The Save The Wave Coalition will committee to assess these criterias thereupon the area will be voted upon and nominated.

These are the criterias that have to be met in order to be named WSR:

  • Quality & Consistency of Waves
  • Environmental Diversity – if it biodiversity it widely recognized especially if is protected
  • Culture & Surfing History – how their history is related and impacted by surfing
  • Capacity & Local Community Support – there must be letters that the effort is backed by the local community

Current Placeholders

Currently Noosa and its beach breaks are the 10th site placed within WSR since the time of its inception in 2009. The other areas are:

Malibu Beach, California in USA

  • Ericeira in Portugal
  • Manly Beach, Australia
  • Santa Cruz,also in Califorina, USA
  • Huanchaco in Peru
  • Bahia Todos Santos in Baja, Mexico
  • Punta Delobos in Chile
  • Gold Coast  (Snapper Rocks), Australia
  • Guarda Do Embau in Brazil

Their placement on this list shows how the community and culture has tied so closely to surfing. With each their own diversity of beach breaks and indigenous flora & fauna. It also shows how the local community knows the importance of preserving the environment as surfers and to make a concerted effort to make sure that these places are protected and preserved. Therefore these places would also make wonderful surf holiday destinations for surfers who enjoy the waves but know the ecological importance of protecting them as well. For more information you can also check out Save The Waves Coalition website over here.

Noosa, being in WSR

The impact is huge for Noosa as it would help in the conservation and preservation of wildlife in the area, thereby gaining support for protecting it for later generations. It would also provides credibility so that the community can also lobby and work with local and regional goverments for the improvement of these surf areas. It also provided overall international recognition in spreading awareness for the importance of protecting these great surfing places. I also expect to see some cool campaigns and programs tied to conservation efforts that might begin as being a part of the World Surfing Reserve.

As Surfers, We Care

Personally this is some great recognition for Noosa and its beach breaks as it has a huge influx of tourists every year. Therefore in order to maintain the beaches and to spread awareness a lot of action from the community and the government need to be generated to uphold the beauty that is Noosa, especially since high amount of tourists causes disturbance in the ecology and pollution if not well managed. As surfers, we also need to care about the environment. No surfer likes to surf in beaches littered with garbage or waves that is so murky because of the pollution, therefore we as also need to take action from time to time to look after the environment we surf in.

Feel free to read the source article here as well.

Here us also some helpful links:

Let me know if you feel I can add more interesting stuff.

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Surfing101: Basic Skills on How to Catch Waves

The ultimate feeling is catching a wave on your own. That is what a surfer (such as yourself) should pursue, to catch the ultimate wave, to keep on improving on your basic skills and most importantly on how to catch waves while surfing. That is where the rush comes from and the price of your effort and concentration paying off. Each of these steps actually have their own science to them as well, but a basic understanding will let you know what to do when you go surfing especially on days of the awesome waves on good day to go surfing.

Observing for the Best Waves to Catch

Note the clear parts of the coastline.Surfers that stare into the horizon are not just looking at the scenery, they are finding where the best waves will develop especially if the waves are sporadic. If you taken some time to read my other article (Waveanomics), you will find that you know these surfers are looking for in a swell. A skilled surfer takes time to learn about the waves; the bigger the waves the longer them time he/she takes to observe them. Some things you can note:

  • Where surfers are lining up
  • Where the waves Form and Collapse – not all good waves are where the crowd is.
  • A calm area (which will probably be a rip current) where you can paddle easier from to the lineup.
  • If it is a reef break, low tide to make sure of any hidden dangers and the change of the waves.

Paddling Out to Catch Waves

As mentioned if you found a clear patch of water, try to paddle into the lineup from there, it should be an ocean current or riptide. That will help you get to your expected lineup faster almost like an escalator. Now for the paddling, you need to paddle with deliberate strokes like in swimming but unlike swimming the strokes underwater should be directed under your surfboard to give a better propulsion through the water. Another cool tip: if you paddle with fingers apart instead of cupped that pulls more volume under your board and give more push. Also when waves rush into you always charge into them in a perpendicular direction. If the waves are small most of the time you can use your surfboard to ride over them. If the waves are bigger or you are at the collapsing point where the wave folds; longboarders turtle-roll and shortboarders duck-dive.

Sitting Tight for the Right Waves to Surf

Once you paddle to the lineup along the coastline where you want to start from, you have to sit tight. You move around to sit in the center of the board if you are watching for waves, and your feet can keep kicking in the water if you want to maintain your center. During this time you can take a breather from paddling to the line-up and relax. Enjoy the scenery the sunset is beautiful when you are in the water. You can also observe the other surfers and how they watch for waves and what they take note of during the surf session. This will also give you a good idea of what to expect when a swell forms and if it will become a wave you will ultimately surf.

Paddling Like Your Life Depends on the Wave

Now that you have isolated your wave, start sitting back (if you are a longboarder) and angle your board to the right or the left as quick as possible, after your board is facing away from the wave start paddling as your life depends on it. Your paddling should match the speed of the waves that are coming at you. Some surfers instead of using their hands in tandem, they use them at the same time like the butterfly stroke in swimming to give that final push. During this time if you have to look back do it just once, that is to make sure the swell is still gathering momentum. Once the waves starts pulling you back then you have already entered the glide zone and where you have to make the split second decision.

How to Pop-Up on Your Surfboard

Here is the part most surfers (kooks alike) ask about, want to know and are still perfecting. During the time of the glide zone you will feel the waves push the tail of your surfboard and the nose will start going underwater (make sure it does not go underwater). You can either paddle more to gain  even more momentum to avoid a nose dive or you can pop-up on your surfboard. A good pop-up should always have the nose of the surfboard facing out of the water. During a pop-up you will want to push up like normal push-up, but there is a slight twist. During a pop-up you have to push your arms not just up but in an angle slightly away from your board so as to push the weight of the nose upwards instead of going into the water. If you have done this right your surfboard will glide along the concave of the waves. That’s where you spring up or pop-up. You would preferably do a pop-up in 1 turn but some surfers drop to 1 knee then stand up. Continue arching you body to maintain balance. If you angle your surfboard slightly to the left or right during your launch, your surf board will glide along the face of the wave. You are SURFING! During that time some surfers love doing tricks but all surfers enjoy the ride and the feeling of being stoked.

In Surfing, Practice Still Makes Perfect

So in a nutshell the basic steps to catching a good wave:

  • Observation
  • Paddling out
  • Sitting tight
  • Paddling for your life
  • Pop-up and glide…surf…. rinse and repeat.

For every surfer practice makes perfect. Remember I mentioned that your surfboard was your companion? If you are not using a foamie, your personal surfboard also affects the overall way you surf and catch waves. Make sure you record EVERY feeling catching a wave, having a wipeout, any nose-dives and going through the waves while surfing. In time you will start feeling the waves and surf the way you surf. Always remember the best surfer is the one having the most fun!

Drop me a comment if I missed anything. I tried making sure to include all the info surfers forgot to tell me or what was not on the internet. I always love to hear from fellow surfers as well for even more input.

 

 

 

NSP Elements 9’0 / 9’2 review – The Practical Surfboard

Sufboard: NSP Elements 9’0 longboard
Price:  $ 652.00 (in Ebay) or get the 8’0 board from Amazon at $ 575
Cheapest Buy: Ebay but Amazon might be better
Measurements: 9’0″ x 22 3/4″ x 3″  73.2L

Attachments Included:  FCS Sidefins, Center Fins and a leash included
My Rating: 7.5 out of 10

General Consensus

NSP is one of those trusted brands out there which you can trust with buying your first surfboard. These surfboards in general generally pop-out surfboards (factory made) so it is not unique brand but it does serve it’s purpose of introducing you to  surfing. This surfboard had its design refreshed for 2018 so it has new designs, shapes and graphics. With sharper rails around the tail with improved performance rocker and combined with mellow V shape at the bottom of the board with subtle double concave shape it makes for improved ride on the wave. It is great for medium to small waves and easy to propel with not too much paddling on the take-off.

Personalized Review

NSP has improved on their classic in order to go with the times. Their design has made it even easier to ride on the rims of the wave and to ride straight off the ride off the tail. Compared to most new long boards the price is fairly cheap and the design the improved (rocker and shape) makes it quite sturdy. I do like its overall design on the board itself which makes it look very classical to those golden age during the time of the Beachboys, but that might just be me talking. I feel that it is a bit heavy with volume of 73.2L which comes with the size but there are some lighter ones out there. The weight and overall volume does make it buoyant on the waves which also helps to overcome the waves on your way to the lineup and also great in order to catch waves that just do not fold. I like the ease which you can move on the waves and how easy it is to catch the waves as well. Though I would not recommend these on larger waves as those could break the surfboard. I do recommend it to a surfers repetoire of surfboards as it is really good for those small wave days and you can get just as much fun from small waves in any given day. Still a classic NSP surfbaord which you can start off with if you are sure of buying a surfboard or want to keep it in your collection for those quiet days.

Overall Maneuverability

The design is still well done in which you can do swooping bottom turns, high trim lines and drop knee cutbacks on the surfboard. The length of the board also makes it fun to do all the longboard classics such as walking and hang-tens. The overall design makes it an ease to catch most waves and the movements are slow and easy going, which is what a longboarder naturally wants during smaller waves. The design also makes it good for paddling on your knees which some longboarders like to do as well.

Storage and Travel

I would not recommend builing a rack for your motorcyle in order to travel with the board the sheer size would make it difficult to turn especially on those windy days. It does fit well on a car maybe use a few fasteners to keep it stable and wrap it with a gentle towel to avoid scratches even if it has a surfboard cover. I would generally keep this in a storage closeby to the sea so that you do not have to travel with it often. I would definitely recommend taking another lighter board if you plan on bringing a surfboard for your trip.

Resell Value and Cost Effectiveness

Because it is deemed a classic surfboard and the overall look just appeals to most people it actually has a high resell value even with a few scratches to it. It is also a good starter surfboard for kooks and for traditional surfers who want polish up on their skills just adds more value it. And for a longboard I really like the price it is actually cheaper than most longboards as it is a pop-out but it does have the high quality that NSP surfboards should have as a trusted brand. I think most surfing connoisseur would still like to keep it for their collection.

Where to Buy

For the US it is also great to buy from Ebay as it is the most cost effective at the moment. The link only ships to the US, though if you are interested they have dealers across the world  and you can check them out here. Though if there are any questions it is best to contact the nearest dealer with any details as well. If there are any cool links to other places where you can buy NSP Elements I will be sure to update it as much as possible. Surfboards also get redesigned often so please feel free to also give me heads up on anything new for NSP Elements as well.

NSP Elements 9′ – the practical NSP Surfboard

The NSP Element 9ft surfboard is just one of those surfboards with a classic design but refreshing new design to them. The overall ride is good it makes for a good starter board especially with its cost effectiveness but I do not feel it is a good all-rounder I would rather avoid waves of over 1.5m if I had to ride this board. Though similar to as many tools on a skiled worker would have, having this NSP surfboard in your set makes it a fine addition for the avid surfer if you encounter those small surf days; it really helps to have it with your other surfboard collection. I recommend this surfboard but I also feel that a buyer should check out other boards as well.

Have you used this board before or  have a variation of it? Please drop me some comments and let me know what you think of it.

Surfing 101: Choosing the Right Surfboard

You are a beginner ready to go out to sea and you have already planned your surfing. You head out but you do not know what is the right surfboard for you. The surfshop might help you with choosing the right board but most of the time you will not get any input. If you are buying a surfboard the chances are it will be your companion for a long time to come. So choosing a surfboard and knowing what size suits you is really important. This article will discuss what you should look for to find the perfect surfboard for you.

Where to Start: Using a Longboard

I think every surfing beginner should start with a longboard. The design makes it able to catch any wave that has some strength to it and it is much easier to catch waves which helps with the initial feeling of accomplishment. It also helps to give you more practice on most days as well. Surfboards are generally made of fiberglass or foam. Most surfshops will start you off with 8~9ft (2.4m~2.7m)  foamie or even a 10ft (3m) one if you are a heavy person, they are cheap easy to carry and above all else they are safe for a beginner. Longboards are also a great way to keep on learning about balance on a surfboard. I recall in the very beginning I rode a 8’6ft foamie it was quite fun thinking back until I got my own surfboard.

What types Of Surfboard Out There

Here are a few types of boards you can check out. You will find them in and around your area sometime and if you are interested you could try them out (after mastering the longboard). They are all used in the art of surfing.

  • Longboard – 8~14ft surfboards, your place to start with their good buoyancy and standing area they allow surfers to catch waves that are too small for shortboards. You can have 1 fin or the typical 3 fins, some even have 4 fins to improve the glide along the waves. On days when the is good waves a skilled longboarder can “walk the board” (walking up and down the length of the board, “nose on the toes” (stand on the edge of the board) and hang-ten (10 toes on the edge of the nose). Interesting note big wave surfers surf with a variation of a longboard.
  • Shortboard – these vary from 6~7ft in length, they may possess a pointed nose with a round or square tail. Shortboards also typically have 3 fins but some designs can possesses 5. Due to the size of the board you need to paddle harder find steeper waves and faster take-offs maybe even going in just before the wave breaks. Most surf barrels with shortboards. Though, these surfboards most professional do a lot of tricks like 360 ° (entire turn on the surfboard), throwing buckets (quick turn that throws a surfer bit out the wave and aerial.
  • Funboards / Malibu –  are usually 6 – 8 feet long and are really buoyant. They are normally used for someone who wants to transition to a shortboard but still likes to keep it easy to catch waves. The overall design helps you catch waves.
  • Fish – they are broader, shorter and flatter than a shortboard which makes it good for mushy waves. They’re flatter rocker helps to cover more of the waters surface which makes it good for paddling.
  • Gunner –  they are especially used for those big wave days, they range in sizes of 6’6 to 10ft in length with longer ones used for catching bigger waves, which allows the surfer to paddle faster and catch those large fast moving waves. It is designed for steep drops and catching fast waves, truly a surfboard for experienced surfers looking to catch giants.
  • Stand-up Paddle boards (SUP‘s) – a typical SUP can be more than 9ft and even more than 12ft, and they normally use a paddle to catch the waves, it almost looks like you are canoeing while standing up. Some  people find them fun but most surfers are wary of SUP as they are dangerous if you get hit by paddle or collide with one.
  • Bodyboards – their length range from 3~6ft. you would see such surfers surf this on their belly. Instead of the typical paddling with your hands, the surfer uses flippers to propel them on the wave. Another interesting fact it seems that David Cameron (previous PM of UK) used to bodysurf as well.

Regardless of which kind of board you use the surfer is the one having the most fun. Later we will go into the different variations of a longboard, shortboards and maybe SUP and bodyboards too. What you have to understand you will encounter these on your surf sessions and always be on the lookout for them.

Basic Makeup of a Surfboard

Here is just a general understanding of a makeup of the surfboard. Most surfers sometimes talk about it when you are having training. Really do not have to have remember the names but just understand the placement of your body on the surfboard and where to paddle. 

  • Deck – that is the general flat surface of a surface where a surfer paddles on for take-off and where a surfer would stand on
  • Nose/ Rocker – the nose is the tip of the surfboard which during paddling should be a few inches out of the waver.
  • Tail – is the backend of the surfboard beneath it you would have the fins for gliding on the waves
  • Rails – that is the edge of the board  which runs from the edge of the board to the nose of the board. Most surfers love to talk about how the shape of the rails help with their surfing of the wave.
  • Stringer – a strip that runs dead center of a surfboard. Some boards do not have it but if you are a beginner stringer’s can really help you with how your body is placed on the board and your overall balance.

That is a general make-up of a surfboard but there are also other other parts to it that is also important such as:

  • Leash – that is a rope that ties your surfboard to you by the ankle (sometimes around the knee). The make sure when you lose your surfboard it does not fall far from you or hurt anyone around you.
  • Fins – the attachment at the bottom of a surf board. You can surf with just 1 one but most surfers who start buying surfboards insist that the more fins, the more glide you get along the wave. Which is true but is not the absolute. If you looking for a surfboard you can have 5 fins if you really want.
  • Surf Wax – When you have your own surfboard, it is good to apply as much of it as possible on where you stand and where you hold the surfboard during paddling.

I feel that these parts are important on a surfboard and it would have helped if I knew a little about them when I started surfing. Let me know anything else you feel I might have missed on on the anatomy of a surfboard.

When to Start Using Shortboard

Most kooks (beginners) or just everybody else thinks that surfing is about riding a shortboard on huge barrels. That is not the case as surfing is also a learning curve as well. As mentioned you need bigger waves and strong propulsion to be able to catch the waves. You must be able to paddle harder, hold your breath longer during wipeouts and be a good swimmer. Therefore you must be strong in body and mind in order to use a shortboard and maybe do a little transitioning with a longer shortboard before going straight into it. Make sure you are ready for it. As mentioned shortboards are not suited for smaller waves so even if you have a shortboard it would be good to still possess a longboard for those more quieter days.

Choosing the Right Surfboard – It Matters

After riding a foamie you will start looking for a better surfboard and once you buy your first surfboard it will accompany on most surf days. It will be your trusted companion if you decide to go surfing often so choose wisely. I will be going into details on next articles on various longboards or shortboards.

Free to me a comment on your first surfboard.

Here are some cool beginner surfboards:

NSP Elements 9’0 / 9’2 review – The Practical Surfboard
Wavestorm Surfboard & Variations – The Family Funboard

Surfing, Mental Health & You

This has long been widely discussed as something most people would do for fun but people have always wondered why surfers are so chilled. There have actually been studies into the mental aspects of surfing that have given conclusive proof that surfing is beneficial for mental health so much so that even substance abuse and mental health services administration in some parts of the world have even opened up programs to use surfing as a way of therapy.

Surfing & Mental Health – Anxiety Reliever

Just being at the seaside is enough to alleviate some anxieties. The sound of the waves, the release of ions and the serene environment are just a few aspects that adds to the meditative qualities of going surfing. Then you add the feeling of being stoked (the feeling surfers get after riding a few waves) which basically breaks down the stress and anxiety one might have. Like any sports, maybe even more so it helps with the releases of of adrenaline and endorphins that give off a feeling of well-being in a person that helps them to cope better with stress-related situations. The concentration and the thorough enjoyment that is put into catching waves helps a person relieve their mind off problems which in turn relieve anxiety. There has even been studies on army veterans on how surfing and the its’ environment has helped them with PTSD(Post Traumatic Stress Disorder) which is most prevalent in such ones after severe war trauma. The effects of a good surfing session always sticks around with you for sometime even after you return from the sea.

Surfing, Mechanism to Cope with Depression

Apart from the adrenaline and endorphin, it also releases serotonin and dopamine which are hormones synonymous with relieving depression. Helping release these chemicals in your body naturally without having to turn to medication. Most medication for Post Traumatic Stress, Dipolar, Depression and Schizophrenia have always been to control the input/output or of hormones (technically there is no permanent cure for mental illness), coupled with surfing it will help a patient cope and as mentioned also the natural release of such hormones. There have been studies written about how surfing fights depression and actually quite a few articles on how surfing improves mental health. Remember in an earlier article surfers say that surfing is “better than sex”? That may help with substance abuse as well. As with most addictions, patients find it hard to quit, but surfing offers a natural outlet for addicts to work on and gain their ‘fix’ instead of turning to drugs. In fact which I will mention a little later some substance abuse and mental health services administrations have incorporated surfing into their therapy as a regiment.

Emotional Benefits of Surfing

Maybe there has been a trauma or something that you prefer not to talk about, just the effects of of going out surfing puts your mind  into the bigger picture of the waves itself and that feeling really also helps a person cope as well. Most surfers are relaxed and carefree, perhaps this comes from a mutual understanding during a surf session that they start looking at the bigger picture in their life or just the majesty of the waves leaves them in awe. You find it easier to cope with life’s problems and overcome them in the long run. Some have even touted a surfing religion, though it is no way a replacement for religion itself, but it goes a long way in being one with nature that is hard to describe.

Interesting Programs Around the World

Here are some interesting programs that are happening around the world at this moment that incorporate surfing as part of their therapy. I will also link a few here for readers to check out as each is quite interesting:

  • Surfers Not Children – this one I have mentioned in a previous article, they basically help street children in Durban South Africa get back on their feet with surfing. Most street children turn to substance abuse when they find life hard, surfing helps replace that with more constructive approach.
  • OneWave – founder himself was diagnosed with bopolar disorder and after a bit of self discovery decided to hep others with their mental health with the power of surfing, located in Sydney Australia.
  • Saltwater Sessions – located in Los Angeles USA, they seem to run a 8 week therapy program for improving mental health.
  • Surfers Healing – also located in California USA they help children who have autism try cope with the power of surfing. I think the founders also have a child with autism which was why this was set up.
  • The Wave Project – this is scattered across the UK, they are a non-profit organization that help people cope with anxiety through surfing.
  • A Walk on Water – also a non profit organization from California that encourages surf therapy for individuals with special needs.
  • Naval Medical Center in Sand Diego USA even offers surf clinics in their many regiments of mental  health therapies.

I am actually very positive there is more out there just to name a few. There was one South America organization which read awhile ago but can not find. Feel free to add more suggestions on the comment below or on social groups so I can add more to the list or even go visit some.

What It Means for You

As a reader what can you glean from this information? Well, most coping with mental health might even not be searching for such services, but 1 thing is for sure surfing helps people improve their mental health. It helps the body, soul and mind of a person. It does not have to be monstrous barrels; the waves can even be knee-high, the sheer love of surfing and the concentration needed surely has some long term effects on your health in general. Most readers who have never tried surfing should try it, and maybe even plan a surf trip. Next time on a vacation maybe plan surfing as something you would like to include in your things to do, especially for fun and especially if the doctor recommends rest and relaxation from your busy work schedule. Find a place to try it out and enjoy the waves it will help in the long run.

Disclaimer: I endorse surfing though I do not endorse any particular medical practice. If required it is best to find a trained medical professional near you. 

 

The Endless Summer – Classic Surf Movie Review

Movie Spotlight: The Endless Summer
Price:  $14.95 (DVD) or $ 9.99 (on Amazon Prime)
Cheapest Place to Buy: Amazon.com
Runtime: 1hr 35min
My Rating: 8.5 out of 10

Personal Review

The Endless Summer is a super stellar classic for anyone who is a surfer or even non-surfer’s if they want to get hooked on it. At first I thought that would be just an analogy of bunch of guys surfing everywhere (it was built on a bunch of old surfing documentaries), but man was wrong. The Endless Summer was recommended by various friends in the surfing world and so I tried it and oh boy did it get me hooked on surfing. The surfers are in their natural zone so there is no acting involved but the movie plays out to be very tidy with a neat story line that will certainly get you hooked and entranced for more. I certainly thoroughly enjoyed it and it was something that got me stoked on surfing when there was no waves to surf at all.

Premise of the Film

The story follows 2 Californian surfers, Mike Hynson and Robert ‘Wingnut’ August on their ultimate quest for the perfect wave. Therefore they decided to plan ahead count the costs so they could live out their dream of finding the best waves around the world. Their adventures takes them across the world, globetrotting from the shark-filled dangers in Australia to the then uncharted surfing regions in West Africa. The scenery also covers Hawaii, Tahiti and New Zealand. What makes it a beautiful film is it has a compelling story with the right ingredients of  heart, humour and genuine setbacks that you find during their quests.

Not Just a Surfing Documentary

Somehow after so many movies out there they never really caught the true adventure of going surfing across the world like what The Endless Summer does. This film was directed in 1966! It did not have any special effects of our time. It is just not some bland documentary (I want to call it a real surf movie), it is a true adventure. With the narration of Lord ‘Tally Ho’ Blears this just makes the film even more riveting and the story-telling fun to watch. I remembered being immersed in their story line into the first few minutes of the film. Their quirky humour  and the narrators responses also adds a certain charm to whole story for example when they spot a areas that has warning signs for sharks and Wingnut starts packing band aids (seriously, what goes in their mind) for their surf trip. They not only go surfing they hang out with the locals in the area. I found it awfully cute when the kids saw Mike and Wingnut go surfing they also wanted to try it out and the shenanigans they get into was actually quite heartwarming and hilarious. Also the setbacks makes the whole story seem really plausible as sometimes as a surfer you plan what you can but it does not always go your way. The was another scene, where they one of their planned trips was a bust no waves with few broken hearts but they discovered another area with new waves and more interesting surfing than they could of ever imagined. Also be sure to try and find that surfer with ‘rigor mortis of the stomach’ while you are watching the film.

Feel of the Film

It is just a film that like a good book will make you feel enthralled and wanting more. The film itself rounds off with a feel-good attitude despite the mishaps, setbacks and heart attacks involved this was a worthwhile trip. The film itself has enough story to keep me captivated, enough surfing to keep me stoked and enough heart to make me feel that this is really worth watching. I think they got the narrative and story just right to feel that the movie as a whole is not only about surfing but also about a quest, a journey of self-discovery and warmth I feel is incomparable to other surf films these days.

Good Film Just Comes with Good Paraphernalia (The Endless Summer T-shirts, Signs and Posters)

I remembered after watching the film I really wanted to get some cool paraphernalia (stuff) about The Endless Summer and after scouring through the internet Amazon really has some cool stuff that is worth a look. Such as:

Just jump right in if you feel adventurous though if you are not interested make sure not to click on the links.

Final Thoughts

This film gets a deserved 8.5 out of 10. It is also highly rated on imdb and rotten tomatoes so the story really speaks for itself. Even though it is an old film, I highly recommend it as a surfing movie if you really want to get yourself hyped on surfing or if you are just looking for a good story to watch and it just happened to be about surfing. This film just one of those timeless classics I hope that everyone will enjoy and pass on. This also the highly recommended first stop if you are preparing to psych yourself up for a good surf trip or just going to do some surfing for fun, it will actually set you up for the adventure. Just watch the first 30 mins of it if you are still not convinced I bet you will not be able to switch it off after that. I highly recommend you getting the DVD as it something you might want to re-watch on a cold rainy day. Amazon Prime also seem to have it on their list so if you want to try it out as a digital that is fine as well.

Let me know your thoughts. I would love to hear from various people what their idea is of The Endless Summer.

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Waveanomics – Mechanics of Surfable Wave

The magnificence of a wave. It is breathtaking and awe-inspiring part of nature which always gets people hooked. Surfing them makes you feel like you are part of nature. Before you go setting off for the waves and start trying to surf another important aspect is understanding the mechanics involved in the waves you surf and then how you are suppose to catch them. A surfer who you train with might give you basic surfing tips on what waves to spot but it better to get yourselves more acquainted with the waves before setting off.

Whitewash – where you start as a Beginner Surfer
We all have to start somewhere

On most days this is the strongest force in the wave itself and basically where you will be starting from. Whitewash (or what the Chinese call it Wave Flower) is basically after the waves that come crashing down and the white foamy part that drags through to the beach. This is also the best place to learn balance while you are surfing and where it will be easy to catch waves. They are normally found close to the shoreline and even surfing the whitewash can be fun during bigger waves. Also worth noting is during your paddling towards the wave you would not want to be caught within the whitewash as it would make it much harder to get to the take-off area and you exhaust a lot of energy even before you get there.

Basic Physiology of a Wave

This is how most surfable waves looks – please refer to the picture.

  •  Whitewash – mentioned above, great for surfing dummies or seaside kooks. A beginner could even get a mini-wipeout which is also fun and a good experience to get a feel of the waves. Surfing the whitewash might be Accomplishment No. 1 in your road to be a surfer.
  • The peak or wave crest  – it is the highest point on a wave if you have a large wave it is also the tipping where the waves start to crash. It is also the are where your getting to the drop zone where you want to start the take-off position. If the tip of your surfboard has already passed the peak. It is too late to catch the wave.
  • The wave curl (or beach waves curls) that is the collapsing point of a wave and the area where shortboard surfers take-off and the best angle is 45~60°, this usually require quick movements and concentration. The most surfable waves would be waves that curl in a folding motion (something you see would like a Mexican Wave during a football match) instead of collapsing like a cliff.
  • The wave shoulder  or wave swell – that is where the wave begins to swell and the wave start to form this is usually where the longboarder takes off and enjoys the ride of nature with the best angle of take-off 30~45° You would also inevitably want a wave that collapses as some swells just carry on without collapsing and would need more paddling to even catch it.
  • The ripcurrent – will be mentioned a little more later and briefly in this article is the circular force that pushes force of the waves, this is usually not visible but felt. Some proper knowledge is required if you are surfing further from land. I will discuss this in detail on another article.
  • The Glide Zone – it is not I term I readily but it makes sense and as a surfer you can actually this. This is when you feel the surfboard get angled downwards by Gravity and the waves start pulling you back. This is the spot you paddle a little harder and you surf along the fastest and smoothest pat of the wave. The feeling is incredible! You feel complete.

This is general make-up of a wave and what you would expect but as become a more seasoned surfer and start taking it seriously there are other factors and terms to the mechanics of a surfable wave that you should know such as (read this if you really want to dig deeper):

  • The wave period – this is the interval between waves (this is gonna get sciency) it is measured by buoys deep along the shorelines, long time ago nobody really cared, but eventually the found out that it is just as important as the size of the wave you are surfing. A longer wave period actually means a longer ride and also stronger waves which means a bigger push. Personally, I look for waves that are higher than 5s per wave in a forecast.
  • Offshore/ onshore winds – preferably an ideal wave would have offshore winds perpendicular to the wave itself. These kinds of winds actually carve the wave to the ideal shape for surfing (remember you want to surf of the fastest smoothest line of the wave wall). If there are other winds or even onshore winds, waves become choppy and you would look for a coastline that is not affected by the wind to surf.
  • High-tide/ low-tide – this is actually affected by the location of the beach itself and no beach is similar when affected by the tides. Generally speaking from low-tide to high-tide gives strength to the waves, and if you are looking hard to see reefs cliffs, low-tide would be the best time to observe the waves.
The Perfect Wave Described

A perfect wave really does differ from person to person as you get more experienced you want to try bigger waves. Though a perfect wave for surfing would be something not higher than your experience, good period in-between waves, off-shore winds, with a glassy wall and right tipping angle. The main picture would be a good example just maybe the height is not for everybody.

There you have it – Indepth knowledge of how a Wave Works

So here is some knowledge you can be prepared with so when the surf instructor speaks it does not sound like gobbledygook. This also gives you a good idea on what you are going to be surfing not just blindly go into the wave like most kooks do. Most importantly is each time you surf a wave you get a little more understanding on what waves you are looking and what homework you are suppose to do before heading out. Drop me a comment if you feel that I missed out on something or my definitions need a little tweaking.

And remember: the best surfer is the one having the most fun!

Surfing 101: Psyching Yourself for Surfing

So you have decided to try surfing and maybe you have a trip to somewhere which has some waves and maybe a surfshop nearby. When I first tried surfing most of the accessories and what you might need as a beginner is right there at the surfshop, but what caught me off guard was the lingo and explanation the surfer told me. It went way over my head especially if you have not done any other seaside sports like wakeboarding, bodyboarding or kite surfing. I should of motivated myself before going straight  to the sea.

Don’t be Part of the Surfing Dummies: Watch Surfing Videos

When I go out surfing I see so many people with these foam pop up boards just wading around in the water not knowing what they are suppose to do. I was actually part of the group too on the first day I surfed. I did not catch a single wave. The surfshop owner rented us the surf accesories and gave us few tips but I think it did not hit home. I should of watched some good surfing movies to motivate me. Maybe a few surfing documentaries would of helped as well. So I watched them later they did make an impact on me. Here is the comprehensive list.

  • The Endless Summer (timeless classic, a must watch)
  • The Endless Summer 2
  • Blue Crush
  • Blue Crush 3 (got me stoked on the more silent days)
  • Surf’s Up
  • Point Break
  • Chasing Maverick (not everyone’s cup of tea)

Then there are some people recommended but I have not gotten a chance to watch them:

  • Soul Surfer
  • North Shore
  • Thicker Than Water
  • Riding Giants

Then there are some surfing documentaries that are nice to try (I will try add more along the way):

  • The Endless Winter
  • Billabong Surf Competitions
  • Riding Giants

If you go to youtube on basic surfing lessons you could also get some really easy pointers on what to do during surfing.

So there you Go…

Now that you have motivated yourself and prepared yourself mentally now is the time to go surfing with your peers. Who knows you might even impress them with your knowledge.

In the End of 1st Day of Surfing

I actually never really got a chance to catch my first wave on the first day of surfing actually wiped out more than anything else. My body could not cope, it was actually not a good day for surfing. But I never gave up, and in the end it paid dividends as I started getting hooked every opportunity to get to the sea I gained experience. From hear on out I will continue on the basics of when you are out at sea.

The Sport of Surfing: ASP Surfing vs Surfing for Fun vs Surfing as Obsession

Man has always been intrigued about the sea: the danger, the majesty, the WAVES. What better way to get or catch a wave than surfing, riding it to your hearts content. This article really is an introduction on the right mindset you should have when you want to try surfing. There is not going to give you tips on surfing (that will come later) but I hope that when you are done it will give you an idea if surfing is for you.

Surfing for Fun (you are a Seaside Kook)

So you are going on a nice trip to the seaside and coincidentally it has some good waves. You have done your research and feel that you want to try surfing. Well, surfing is the coolest thing you can get into. Trying the waves out with your friends, falling all over the place, egging each other on when the other falls, all makes surfing a great social gathering topic for anyone. In acual fact surfing is for all ages (i have seen kids young as 5 and oldies 70’s surf) and animals too (try going to Youtube and typing “surfing dog” or “surfing goat”, you won’t regret it).

Though as a beginner (or a Kook as you will be known in the surf community), you still need to know some basics and a little work needs to be done. You will need to know safety and precautions, like surf etiquette, waves and riptides (no kook should jump into a wave; I have seen some get swept further from the shore by riptides), even before you set off for the sea. So, do a few basic surf lessons before you get into the water and know your limitations (you won’t be surfing like a pro in Waikiki on your first day of surfing!)

When you get your surf your first wave it might even be a small ankle length, you sure will feel like Jack from Titanic (i’m the King of the World) or Jake in Avatar riding his bird thingy – darn James Cameron references. 1 thing you will hear from surfers “it is better than sex!”

Surfing as a Pro (looking into ASP Surfing)

So at this point where you probably were a Kook for a while maybe years or your Dad was kook or family member get you hooked on surfing was kook and now you want to go Pro like Kelly Slater as you can Hang-Ten or throw buckets like a pro. Well, going pro means you have to do it like every other sportsman in every other sports: training. Rigorous training too, I heard this from some Basketball quote: You don’t play basketball to get fit. “You get fit to play basketball.”

It is the same as being a pro-surfer: “You don’t surf to get fit. You get fit to surf.”

This is a rubbish quote if you are really doing things for fun or health – in my honest opinion. I will explain that in next the paragraph. But this quote fits so much more when you are a pro-surfer. If you are a pro surfer there is so much better chances than being a pro basketball player (how many basketball players can really go pro). Pro surfing has even empowered street children who would never be pro athletes.

After rigorous training of the body, mind and even soul (if you are going to be surfing large waves like the Dungeons or Nazare) you go to the WSL (World Surf League) and be enrolled and ranked on the ASP (Association of Surfing Professionals) and start competing in competitions or sending in videos for Big Waves.

Surfing because it is Healthy

Surfing as a sport makes it a good cadiovascular exercise i.e helps your heart and improves blood circulation especially when you are stoked but there are also other health benefits to surfing that can really help:

  • Good cardiovascular exercise – It’s exercise. It works.
  • Improves mental health – it helps you to relieve your stress as you concentrate on the waves and there are also other mental health it helps alleviate which I will elaborate on in the next article.
  • Improves muscle tone – it actually works various parts of the muscle which you never notice. It is better than gyming as it works all the muscles areas not just a certain area.
  • Improves energy levels – I know everytime I get stoked on waves, it makes me go the extra mile. In turn this helps your energy levels.
  • Helps with wieght loss – what better way than to loose that belly fat than doing something you love, if you are really committed to surfing the mindset of eating healthier and getting more practice is a strong incentive.
  • It helps improve balance – staying on the board helps you with your balance on and off the board.
  • Flexibility – manuevering around the surfboard and getting wiped out makes you think-fast and dexterous on your body movements.

Surfing as an Obsession

When you start getting stoked on your first wave and surfing it, at the moment you are going to get hooked. I does not end there, when you know can get in contact with the ocean, you start going often. When you are done with the last surf session, you will start planning for the next. Then you start looking into various surfboards, equipment and trips, it certainly grows on you. It is better than a drug addiction and you will understand the concept “it is better than sex”. I also suggest watching Endless Summer which will just stoke your for more surfing. Yep, it is an obession.

What you Waiting for Go Surfing!

What are you waiting for? Go try surfing. It has all the good things none of the bad. The concept of a surfer surfing large waves is way off, surf the ones your are most comfortable with may it be knee high, shoulder high or just the whitewash. It is the most fun activity social or solo. What do you need to surf and where do you start that’s where the next article will explain.

Feel free to leave comments on how to psych yourself up for surfing!

 

About Roy “The Cowboy Surfer”

Thanks for visiting my site. I hope that this is informative to you as you try different things, new things such as surfing. I am sure that is will enrich your life as it has mine, please feel free to comment when you like.

WHAT AM I?

I am down-on-my-luck normal guy like anyone else on this earth. Though what sets me apart is that I like to try new things such as new foods, new books, new sports. This is partly main reason why I tried surfing. I am no pro-surfer; I do it because it helps me cope and is a great way to handle stress.

WHY MAKE A SITE THAT SHREDS

I feel that every person with a hobby, sports or interests will need some sort of pointer some time in their lives. I knew I needed it, I sure needed it, but it was a struggle to find. So I tried searching, but it was scattered, so I decided to have a central place to help others, beginners like me, to know more about surfing.

WHERE NEXT?

I hope that when I can get this website up and running, it will be bustling with input from various people with cool ideas and direction.

If you ever need a hand or have any questions, feel free to leave them below and I will be more than happy to help you out. Please leave some comments. I would love the feedback.

All the best,

Roy “The Cowboy Surfer”
roy@surfing4u.com